I was feeding Averi some Gerber Chicken Noodle Dinner. She CLEARLY didn't like it and I couldn't help recording her eating it.
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
How to alpha debris at the Supported Sitter stage
We'll show you how to feed your baby during the Supported Sitter stage. You'll learn about your baby's nutrition needs, plus when and how to start solid foods. Find out how to prepare single grain cereal, and when to introduce single-ingredient purees.
Friday, December 16, 2011
Gerber Cereal, Whole Wheat with VitaBlocks, 8-Ounce Boxes (Pack of 12)
!±8± Gerber Cereal, Whole Wheat with VitaBlocks, 8-Ounce Boxes (Pack of 12)
Wiring A Pool Pump Compare Catalog Proxima Projector Bulb Great Deals Goodyear Sra
Monday, December 5, 2011
Geber Oatmeal with Zinc (Quantity of 6)
!±8± Geber Oatmeal with Zinc (Quantity of 6)
Brand : Gerber | Rate : 
| Price :
Post Date : Dec 05, 2011 17:38:31 | Usually ships in 6-10 business days
| Price : Post Date : Dec 05, 2011 17:38:31 | Usually ships in 6-10 business days
More Specification..!!
Geber Oatmeal with Zinc (Quantity of 6)
Thursday, December 1, 2011
What to Do When Your Dog Or Cat Won't Eat
Your dog won't eat. Or your cat is a picky eater. So what on earth do you do?
First, a caveat. No animal will willingly starve itself. But ALWAYS have your pet seen by a vet when there's a change in behavior. You need to rule out illness before embarking on solving a pet's eating problem. Be sure to check for a bad tooth as this is often overlooked as a cause of eating issues. The second caveat: Eating problems can be complex and the tips offered here are simplistic. I offer them with 30 years of experience as a dog owner, breeder, handler and fancier in the world of dogs, but you should discuss them with your vet to see if any are a plausible remedy for your pet's situation.
We'll start with dogs, and assuming that your dog is healthy but not a good eater, here are some potential reasons why and ideas for fixing it.
If you feed your dog treats during the day, stop. You want your dog hungry at meal times.If your dog is a show dog, remember that bait should be offered in TINY pieces, it's not meant to be dinner. When it comes to meals, put the dog's food bowl on the floor, give her 10 minutes to eat it, and if it isn't touched, pick it up and put it away. Don't feed again until the next meal, and resist the temptation to give treats. Do this for a whole week because what you're doing here is behavior modification. Remember, a healthy dog won't starve itself to death, but a stubborn, healthy dog could modify YOUR behavior if you cave in.
If you change pet foods frequently, stop. Frequent diet changes can create a finicky eater. The dog learns to "holdout" to see what will be offered next. When you find a nutritious diet your pet will eat, stay with it. If you MUST change the pet's diet, do it gradually over a two week period. Add a small amount of the new diet to the old food, and each day, increase the amount of the new feed while decreasing the amount of the current food. This gradual change will help prevent diarrhea, vomiting and finicky eating.
With picky eaters, it's important to feed a "super premium" brand of dog food. These foods cost a little more and are made with better ingredients, but they are nutritionally dense. This means that your dog is actually eating less in quantity than the cheaper brands bought at grocery stores (these foods have the nutritional value of bark), but because there are more "calories per cup" in a premium food, they're actually getting more nutrition. Look for brands such as Merrick's "Grammy's Pot Pie" (canned food), California Natural, Prarie, Canidae, Flint River, Nutro, Wellness, Eagle Pack Holistic or Nutrisource.
Mixing kibble with a small amount of canned dog food and water will also make it enticing. This next part is important: The single most natural way to increase a pet's appetite is to warm their food because it increases the smell and makes it more appetizing.
Perhaps your dog has a health issue or is on a medication that makes him not want to eat. She's under a vet's care, but the task of getting nutrition into her falls on you. Now what? First, understand that the less a dog eats, the less he WANTS to eat. Add to that the dog who comes to associate food with nausea and you have a real problem, so the sooner you can get your dog to WANT to eat on his own, the better. So much for the obvious.
We'll start with the simplest remedies and work our way up to a radical solution that worked for one of my dogs. Assuming that your dog is on a high quality feed but still not eating, you may need to go to the next step: making dog food taste even better.
You don't want to make these next foods a daily staple, mostly because the high sodium content of many of them would be contra-indicated for dogs in renal failure or with heart issues (if your dog does have kidney issues, check out a really informative web site here.) The following foods have been tried and tested by people in the dog fancy and are suggested ONLY as a means to jump start the appetite in a sick or compromised dog: Sardines, canned cat food, Gerber's baby food - especially turkey or sweet potato, braunschweiger, Limburger Cheese, broth, pureed liver, Dinty Moore Beef Stew, yogurt, cottage cheese/cream cheese, canned mackerel, scrambled eggs with cream cheese, chicken noodle soup - and even this one: hard-boiled eggs smashed up in French Vanilla yogurt, slightly warmed.
Sometimes, you may need to "jump start" an appetite with something so enticing, it's irresistible. Here is the original recipe for "Satin Balls," one of the most requested recipes on Wellpet, Showdogs-L, VetMed, and other popular e-mail lists for serious dog people:
10 pounds of cheap hamburger meat
1 lg. box of Total cereal
1 lg. box oatmeal
1 jar of wheat germ
1 1/4 cup veg oil
1 1/4 cup of unsulfured molasses
10 raw eggs AND shells
10 envelopes of unflavored gelatin
pinch of salt
Mix all ingredients together, much like you would a meatloaf. Divide the batch into 10 quart freezer bags and freeze.Thaw as needed and feed raw! (This is also a good way to put weight on a skinny dog, increase energy, and to alleviate itchy, flaky skin). This isn't a substitute for meals, it's meant to whet a dog's appetite. If the dog is eating this eagerly, start mixing it with kibble gradually. The idea is to wean them off the Satin Balls and onto kibble.
Next, we move on to "fixes" that come in a tube or pill. Remember that the point of these products is to stimulate an appetite and are not long term solutions; We start with Re-Vita whose products are said to be effective for problem appetites; "Pet-Tinic" is a liquid dietary supplement containing iron, copper and 5 essential vitamins. The palable meat-flavored liquid is readily accepted and one "tester" reported that it brought back her pet's appetite almost immediately, Because of its contents, you'll want to have your vet's approval before using this. "Nutri-Cal" is pure nutrition that squeezes out like toothpaste; dogs like its taste and it's a quick way to get nutrition into a dog. When diluted with water, Dyne High Calorie Dietary Supplement can be used to combat dehydration and provide energy because each ounce provides approximately 150 calories containing vitamins and minerals that maintain constant therapeutic blood levels.
If none of the aforementioned tips work, this is where I get pretty serious because my own philosophy is that a lack of appetite is a lousy reason for a dog to die. What you'll read next isn't pleasant - but if you love your dog, you have to get nutrition into her. As far as I know,there are four ways to do this when the dog can't eat on his own: syringe food into the dog's mouth, stuff food down the dog's throat, hook the dog up to an IV, or insert a stomach tube. I've done all of them at one time or another. And they all stink, but they're preferable to the alternative: a dog who wastes away and dies.
Syringing: You'll need a couple of large syringes from your vet. Using canned food; determine the amount your dog needs to sustain his weight, divide that amount in half and spoon that much into a blender (you and this blender will become inseparable over the coming days). Add enough warm water to blend easily into a very fine puree and for each meal, gently syringe the puree into the side of the dog's lips. Or, you can cut to the chase. Pry the dog's mouth open and squeeze the syringe plunger down so that the food trickles to the side and back of the dog's mouth. It takes a bit of time to get the hang of this since you don't want the dog to aspirate food into his lungs. Speak to the dog soothingly and praise him when you're done. Remember, it's not the dog's fault he's unable to eat and it's only temporary until the appetite comes back.
Stuffing: This was my least favorite means of getting food into a dog. It was messy and degrading. In a nutshell, you make "food bombs" that are narrow enough to slide down the back of the dog's throat. These "bombs" are a mixture of wet & dry food that's been pureed into a texture that allows shaping. There are folks out there who are really good at doing this - and some dogs who just don't eat well become so used to eating this way that they'll stand calmly, lift up their little heads and open their mouths like guppies in anticipation for the next "bomb." Since all we care about is getting nutrition into the dog, if this works for you,that's what counts.
IV: A "no brainer." At this point, a dog is so ill that this is pretty much the last resort. It's no substitute for the calories gotten from real food, but sometimes it serves as a band-aid until the dog is back on its feet and able to eat the real thing.
Stomach tube: Proverbially speaking, this is what separates the men from the boys. When I was faced with a dog whose heart medication caused anorexia but who was otherwise healthy, I had but little choice to pull out all the stops. Syringe feeding, food bombs - these were not long term solutions. Guided by my vet, we made an informed decision to insert a stomach tube. Mind you, at the time we thought it would be a short term fix until my dog ate on his own. Keep reading.
The first tube put in was an ugly, brown rubber tube that was SO long, it had to be wrapped around my dog's mid section and secured with a lady's tube top when not in use. I prepared the food as if I was going to syringe it into my dog's mouth, only it was syringed into a tube that had been inserted into his side over the stomach. In less than a week, the dog knew the sound of the blender, knew what was coming and would lie down on his side in preparation for his meal.
Each day before I approached the blender, I always offered the dog his meal in a bowl since it was my fondest desire that the dog eat like a dog. After many weeks, however, I knew this wasn't going to happen. Ever. At this point, my vet and I had a frank discussion about options and he mentioned a permanent tube, one inserted from the inside out. The "Bard" was a gastronomy device made of silicon that was successfully used to feed disabled children but had never been used in canines. My nearly 14 year old Puli would be the first dog to have the slick silicon "button" inserted. It fit flush against his stomach and a little "lid" flicked open like the flip-top portion of a tube of toothpaste. Compared to what I had been working with, it was a Porsche compared to an Edsel and no one else ever knew it was there.
The tube enabled my dog to live a couple of more years. Feeding him took less than five minutes and afterwards, he would run with the other dogs,bark into the wind, enjoy the sun on his back and know that I adored him. I would do it again in a heartbeat.
Because of the seemingly radical step we took to ensure this dog's survival, it wasn't something I discussed openly. Too many people out there feel that if a dog can't eat on his own, he's not meant to live. To them I say, "Phooey." The dog wanted to live, to survive and feel the hand of those who loved him rubbing his ears. But he couldn't eat. His spirit was willing and he would have done anything to please me, but this one thing he couldn't do. How then, was I to deny him the one thing I could do to help him?
Cats: Needless to say, cats are not like dogs. They can get liver damage from not eating even for just a day or two. When a cat stops eating, their body will start to use its fat stores as fuel. The old fat stores are mobilized to the liver, which should begin fat burning. But when the fat arrives at the liver, the liver doesn't burn the fat efficiently and it accumulates in the liver.
The resulting liver disorder is known as "hepatic lipidosis", or "fatty liver disease." This condition may be suggested when blood tests show impaired liver function. Getting fatty liver disease is not isolated only to cats, and fasting cats don't always get this condition, they just seem more prone to it when they don't eat.
But according to the Cornell Online Consultant, there are 454 more possible Diagnoses for Feline Anorexia. Wow. A good web site you can visit here explains the different reasons a cat might not be eating, from acid stomach to ulcers and including fatty liver disease. The bottom line, however,is that you have less "wiggle room" when a cat won't eat. Tries these tips:
-Warm the food because warmed food has a stronger smell which will make a cat want to eat.
-Handfeeding: Sit with your cat and talk to her. Offer a little piece of food to her.
-Offer special treats like canned or pouched food instead of dry kibble.
-Offer tuna and cheese or milk or cream, all in small amounts.
-Tasty liquids, like water from tuna packed in water or, rarely, oil. Avoid tuna packed in vegetable broth as itmay contain onions. Try clam juice or low-salt chicken broth. Avoid onions and anything made with bouillan as it's too salty;
-Sprinkle some catnip on the food.
Pull out all the stops and make some Home Made Cat Food with this recipe:
Switch off the protein sources with each batch or two. Switch between:
- Half Pound of minced boneless chicken breast or thigh
- Six Ounces of dark-mean ground turkey or minced turkey
- Half Pound of lean, minced beef
- Half Pound of minced beef, chicken or turkey heart. About three times a week, include one chopped hard-boiled or scrambled egg. Occasionally substitute a five-ounce can of salmon or tuna for the meat. Avoid canned salmon or tuna for cats that are prone to urinary tract infections.
Mix foods together.
There are some drugs that can help stimulate a cat's appetite including Diazepam (Valium). Other drugs to ask your vet about are Periactin (generic name Cyproheptadine), Serax (generic name Oxazepam) and Dalmane (generic name Flurazepam). All have potential side effects so it's important to talk with your vet.
Syringe feeding and feeding tubes as mentioned in the section for dogs is also an option for cats.
Good luck and know that you're not alone. Feeding issues are among the most frustrating of concerns.
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Sunday, November 27, 2011
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Kaedan dancing!!!
Kaedan @ 49 weeks 23lbs..he is eating most solids now that we can mash up, oatmeal, and grits..loves fruits and veggies, oh and he is also eating crunchies by gerber..Loves those!!
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Sugar Glider Diet
Since they are omnivorous, they are fond of many different types of food including meat. Some of the foods that Sugar Gliders, in general seem to enjoy, are as follows, but NOT limited to:
Apples, applesauce (baby Food Formula Only), apricots, bananas, berries, bread, cantaloupe, carrots, cherries, corn, dates, dried fruit, eggs, fig, grapes, honey, honeydew, insects, lettuce (Romaine or leaf only, Head or Iceberg can cause diarrhea), meal worms, meats (low fat turkey, boiled, skinless chicken & feeder mice), melons, nuts (assorted, unsalted and raw), oranges, papaya, peaches (not the pits, they are toxic), peanut butter, pears, pineapple, plums, pure fruit juices, raisins, strawberries, sunflower seeds, sweet potatoes.
I do not suggest broccoli cauliflower, or cabbage due to the gas producing properties once ingested, no one likes to have gas, even Sugar Gliders.
One of the things that might work well for you is to have a few different containers and chop up different fruits and vegetables in each until they are full. Then all you have to do each night is to open the container(s) that you wish to feed from and pull cut a few of the pieces you wish to feed. I would like to add here that I consider it cruel not to feed some type of insect (at least) during the week. In the wild, they will eat fruits and animals and they should not be denied that while in captivity. It does not have to be done every day, but should be done often.
Sugar Gliders can gain weight more easily in captivity due to lack of movement that they would experience in the wild. Babies born to overweight parents can sometimes be born blind or with impaired vision caused by fatty deposits in their eyes. This can be corrected by a controlled diet and measuring weight with a small scale. One of the things that help cause this condition is by feeding to many nuts, which are high in protein and fat. To reduce their weight you need to reduce their fat and protein and try to increase their exercise. It may take a few weeks to bring down their weight.
Do not get frustrated when trying to feed your pet. They are peculiar with their feeding since they may willingly accept a food for a few days and then not take the same thing after a week and then eat it the following week. The bottom line is that they each have their own personality and tastes, and it will take time to find out what they like. You may find it easier to go to your local grocery store and buy a bag of frozen mixed vegetables and use these along with fresh fruit. You also need to make sure that your Sugar Glider has fresh water every day. Keep in mind that tap water may not be best since it is usually treated with chemicals to clean the water.
A couple of suggestions that I will make concerning any type of feed bowls would be that you should at least have a bowl that will not tip or spill easily. Most Sugar Gliders will tend to climb up on the bowl and set on the edge of the bowl. If the bowl is not heavy enough to support their weight, it will tip over and the food will spill either causing a mess or creating a situation where the food falls through the bottom of the age and the Sugar Glider will not be able to eat. Another suggestion that has worked well for me is to have a type of feed holder that hangs on the side of the cage. I have done this because as the Sugar Glider climbs around the cage, they will excrete and droppings fall to the bottom of the cage hitting whatever is in its way, including the food bowl. My feeders are located at the top of the cage with enough room for a Sugar Glider to sit up, on the edge, without being uncomfortable while eating. This keeps them from climbing above the food (most of the time) and lessens the chance that they will soil in their food.
A sample Glider formula that works well and is as follows:
Adult formula:
4-8 ounces Applesauce 1/2 cup Gerber dry cereal (for protein) 1/4 cup rice 1/4 cup oatmeal 1/4 cup honey 4 ounces plain non-fat yogurt 4 ounces isomil or ensure plus Apple or Orange juice to make soupy
Puree in blender until liquid form and put in ice cube trays and freeze and feed 1-2 times a week. Pull one out for an AM feeding and one for PM feedings. Discard after 5 hours. It is still a good idea to offer some type of solid foods for them too as this will help keep their teeth and gums clean and healthy.
Some people suggest feeding once a day at dusk, while others will feed twice a day. Which method you choose should be dependent upon your Sugar Gliders. Are they still hungry in the morning? Feed them a small amount in the morning or give them a little more in the evening. If I give too much food to mine, they tend to make a mess in their cage, so I do feed less at each meal, but fed twice a day. Try mixing up a few things that your Sugar Glider enjoys and are good for them and blending it together and freezing it. You can get a couple of ice cube trays fairly inexpensively and use those for freezing.
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Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Camping Checklist for Forgetful Campers
REALLY IMPORTANT STUFF!
Campground reservation info.
Directions to the actual campground.
Packing - Put food on the bottom (you'll need other items first)
Backpack, daypack, and/or fanny pack
Bags - Tent bag, grocery bags, etc.
Cardboard boxes if needed
Ice Chests
ICE!
5 gallon bucket or similar container
Large (18-30 gal) Rubbermaid(tm) container for food storage
Lighting - Check batteries!
Maglight - The larger, the better
Gas lantern (and/or electric)
BIC lighter
Matches (preferably water proof)
Spare batteries and bulbs
Spare lantern fuel and mantles
Solar Panel
Glow Sticks
Batteryless Bulbless Flashlight
Shelter/Bedding
Sleeping bag
Space Blanket
Ground Cloth - Tarp for big tents
Floor Mats (use at tent entrance)
Mattress or pad - Inflator for air mattress
Pillow
Tent
Seam Sealer
Camp axe or hammer to pound tent stakes
Shade Canopy & Rope & Stakes
Emergency blaket (found at walmart)
Tikki Torches (fill with citronella oil), also listed in medical.
Overhead rain tarps (not just shade).
Hay bale (to spread in dirt or mud areas).
10-12 inch nails from hardware store for emergency tent stakes
Tea candles to mark where tent stakes are
Sign that says No Candles in Tents!
Medical
Epipen if you have allergies
Sunscreen
Bug Repellent - Spray, Citronella Candle, etc.
Tylenol, Advil, Aspirin, Naproxin
Tums
Antibiotics creams
Tweezers for splinters & ticks
Antiseptic, bandaids and bandages
First Aid Kit (may include all the above items)
Benadryl Sinus Tablets
Allergy Eye drops
Pocket Tissues
Campho-phenique (good for minor burns, cuts, scrapes and many use it on
poison ivy)
Moist Towelettes (for cleaning wounds and early uses on poison ivy)
Extra weeks supply of any Prescriptions
Box of latex gloves (100 pack)
Cleaning & Personal Items
Bar soap
Hand Sanitizer (waterless)
Washcloth
Shampoo
Toothpaste & toothbrush
Comb/hair brush/clips/bands/hair ties
Make-up bag
Razor & shaving cream
Towel
Toilet Paper
To save space, unroll toilet paper and reroll it and put inside the tube
Whisk broom to clean table and tent site
Deodorant
Contact lens supplies
Feminine supplies
Dishwashing soap and rubber gloves
Dish rack
Laundry Detergent (biodegradeable preferred)
Miscellaneous
List of important phone numbers
Spare car/truck/boat/rv keys
Small shovel
Swiss Army knife
Compass and Map
Fishing pole and gear (+ license & bait!)
Duct tape and/or electrical tape
Safety pins
Sewing kit
Cellular phone w/extra battery and car adapter
Two way radio(s) (ham, CB, Family)
Camera w/good battery and extra film
Camcorder w/good battery and extra tapes
Radio and/or TV
Weather Radio
Crankup Radio
Books (ID books, Little House), cards, games, toys, Bible, etc.
Card table
MONEY, credit card, ID
Pocket Tool
Guitar/Harmonicas/Other musical instrument(s)
Bike/Seats/Helmets
Binoculars
Whistles
Signal Mirror
Chairs
Travel Clock
Clothesline and Clothespins
Basic tools (screwdrivers, pliers, etc.)
Copper pipe pieces for the campfire See note
Rope or String
Leather strips
Heavy rubber bands
Canoe or boat
Life jackets
Piece of carpeting (fake grass) for tent or RV entranceway
Pet Food
Eyeglass strap (to hold them on your head)
Fire starters (found in BBQ sections of stores) made from wax and sawdust
Steel Wool (can be used to start a fire by touching ends of battery to it - BE CAREFUL!)
Sand Paper
Extension cords
Pads of paper and pencils/pens
Milk crates (good for storage, step ladder and more)
Fly Swatters
Toothpicks
Dustbuster
Ear Plugs (to block out the noisy neighbors)
Clothing
Hat
Bandanna
Jacket - As weather dictates; Eskimo style, mackintosh, windbreaker, etc.
Poncho - Doubles as emergency tent/lean-to
Pants/Overalls, with belt
Underwear - 2
Shirt - 2 or 3 (one light, one flannel)
Shoes, shower shoes, HIKING BOOTS
Socks - 2 pair
Work gloves & warm mittens/gloves
Swim suit
PJ's
Sunglasses
Sulfer - keeps chiggers out of your clothes
Cooking
Stove with fuel & lighter
Newspapers for lighting a campfire
Firestarter sticks (wax/sawdust things from the grocery store)
Firewood
Charcoal or wood & Grill for BBQ
Frying Pan - Nonstick w/plastic spatula is nice
Cooking skewers (for hot dogs, s'mores, etc.)
Pot or sauce pan - Big enough to cook noodles for all; With lid
Dutch Oven
Can opener - If you have canned goods
P-38 Can Opener (military type, small, flat and fits in wallet)
Thermos
Tongs
Coffee maker & filters
Pot lifter and/or pot holders
Tablecloth
Stew Pot
Soup Ladel
Sandwich maker (type you put in fire)
Measuring cup
Cutting Board
Strainer
Veggie Peeler
Dishes
Reusable
Plate - Partition tray/plate is nice
Collapsable camping/hiking cup
Alladin travel mug
Kitchen knife - Nice to have; in general, carry a pocket knife
Small mixing bowl
Knife, Fork, Spoon, Spatula
Small flat and phillips screwdrivers
Scrub Pad
Dish Pan
Tupperware (for leftovers)
Consumables
Paper towels & napkins
Trash bags
Garbage disposal bags (stronger than regular trash bags)
Paper plates, cups, bowls, etc.
Plastic knives, forks, spoons
Ziplock Bags
Aluminum Foil
Dish soap
Water
At least 1/2 gallon per person/day -- Water filter if relying on natural water sources
Water bottle, to carry while hiking
Garden hose
Food & Drink
Pancake Mix - Krusteaze, 1/2 cup per person per day (need large skillet)
Cooking Oil - About 1 oz per person per day or Pam Spray
Syrup - About 2 oz per person per day
Butter - 1/2 stick per person per day
Malt-o-meal, or Cream of...wheat, rice, ...
Oatmeal - Instant single serving packs
Potatoes - 1-2 per person per day -- freeze dried if packing
Bacon - 2 slices per person per day
Eggs - 1-2 per person per day, fresh or powdered
Noodles - Spaghetti, Angel Hair, Ramen, or shells
Spaghetti Sauce - In jars or dehydrated
Parmesan cheese
Bouillon cubes - Chicken & Vegetable
Rice packages
Soup/Chili - mix or cans
Tuna - Don't forget Mayo, pickles, and onions
Onions, lemons, mushrooms, Tomatoes
Bread - One or two loaves per day if camping with a small group
Dry condiments - Salt, Pepper, Spices, Sugar
Catsup
Mustard
Mayo - Small jar or squeeze bottle
Cheese - Cheddar, swiss, American
Fruit - Small fruit cups or fresh fruit
Veggies - carrot/celery sticks daily
Taco Stuff - (Meat, seasoning package, olives, lettuce, tortillas, buns)
Hamburger meat (pre seasoned and ready to cook)
Frozen hashbrowns in the bag
Cocoa, Coffee, & Teas (don't forget SUGAR!)
Marshmallows, Graham Crackers & Hershey Bars (S'mores)
Peanut Butter & Jelly
Deli meat slices: Turkey, Ham, Salami
Hot dogs & buns
Milk, juice, soft drinks, Ice Tea, Lemon Ade, Kool-Aid
Vienna Sausages
Lil Smokies
Snacks
Hamburgers & Buns
Steak
Ham
Corn on Cob
Cereal
Nutri Grain Bars/Granola Bars
Fixin's for stew (some of the items are above)
Beer
Jiffy Pop or Regular popcorn
Popcorn oil
Spray oil (like Pam)
Squeeze butter or margarine
Beans
Camping with Children
Current photos of the children in case they get lost
Diapers
Swim Diapers
Wipes
Bottles/sippycups
Playyards
Jogging strollers
Backpack carriers
MANY sets of clothing
Extra pair(s) of shoes
Formula
Jar foods
Gerber toddler foods
Hats
Toys,
Favorite blanket or stuffed toy(very important!)
Powdered milk(for children that have outgrown formula)
Snacks
Storybooks
Baby Hammock
Baby Swing
kidsafe bugspray
sunblock
Portapotty with grocery bag liner (easy cleanup)
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Sunday, November 13, 2011
How To Raise White Worms For The Aquarium
Every successful breeder of tropical fish knows that feeding live foods to their charges is one of the best ways to maintain healthy and active fish.
Live foods are overall high in protein. They stimulate spawning, and help to intensify coloration. Live foods enhance the natural tendencies of fish to forage for their food as they would in their natural environment.
White worms (Enchytraeus albidus) are a great source of food for the aquarium. They are about 70% protein, 14.5% fats, and approximately 10% carbohydrate. The white worm in size is approximately 3/4" to 1 1/2", somewhere between Tubifex and Grindal worms. Fish love them, and they are appropriate for a large variety of carnivore fish, even the smaller cichlids.
Nick Lockhart, breeder for King Discus [http://www.kingdiscus.com] feeds white worms twice weekly to our breeding discus and juveniles. His goal is to provide a wide variety of food to keep the fish interested and feeding to stimulate breeding.
White worms are easy to raise. A plastic shoebox from the dollar store will meet the needs of most aquarists. As worms need to breathe, the container shouldn't be air tight. Cutting a small hole in the lid and placing a piece of breathable foam in the hole will suffice to allow enough oxygen to reach the worms.
Fill the container about 3/4 full with peat moss as the medium. The peat moss should be wet, but not soaked. Test by squeezing a bit of the medium in your hand. If a few drops emerge, then you have it right. If water emerges from the mass in a stream, you have it too wet.
Add your starter culture of worms. Finding a suitable starter culture can at times be difficult. A good source can be from auctions at local fish clubs, or from a fellow enthusiast. Also, looking in the classified in the back pages of magazines like Aquarium Fish Magazine or Aquarium USA can sometimes lead to a good resource.
Place a piece of wet crustless white bread on top of the medium for compost. Cover this with a sheet of plastic the size of the slice of bread. The plastic aids in keeping the bread from drying out. It is a good idea to bury the piece of bread in the medium when first starting a culture to prevent mold from occurring. Allow the worms a week to establish before feeding them. Check on them on a daily basis to insure that they are eating the bread.
White worms will need to be housed in a cool dark place, free from insects. We use an apartment sized refrigerator with a temperature control sensor that maintains the temperature at 55-65 degrees Fahrenheit.
One of the best foods for white worms is Gerber's Baby Oatmeal. Add a pinch of active dry yeast to the mixture. The trick is to feed the worms enough to insure they thrive, but not so much that it will begin to mold. A good rule of thumb is to feed only what they will consume in three days. A little trial and error work is needed here. If mold occurs, simply spoon it out of the medium, and replace the food, using less the next time.
White worm cultures will "crash" if the population becomes too large. This can be noted by the worms attempting to crawl up the sides of the container. Simply dump the medium onto a sheet of newspaper, separate the medium into two parts, and you have another culture to fall back on if the first crashes. Get another shoebox, top to 3/4 full with dampened peat moss, and you have the insurance of a supply of white worms.
To harvest white worms, simply wait until a nice clump of them are underneath the sheet of plastic, pluck them out with tweezers or your fingers, and clean appropriately before feeding to your fish. rinsing with dechlorinated water, by pouring from one container to another will do the trick, removing any soil or left over food. You can then feed the worms to your fishes.
The biggest thing to remember about growing white worms is to never let the medium dry out. It is also a good idea to have two cultures growing at the same time, in case one of the cultures "crashes." Keep an eye out for mold, feed the worms appropriately, and you will have happy, vigorous fish!
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