Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Kaedan dancing!!!

Kaedan @ 49 weeks 23lbs..he is eating most solids now that we can mash up, oatmeal, and grits..loves fruits and veggies, oh and he is also eating crunchies by gerber..Loves those!!

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Sunday, November 20, 2011

Sugar Glider Diet

!±8± Sugar Glider Diet

Since they are omnivorous, they are fond of many different types of food including meat. Some of the foods that Sugar Gliders, in general seem to enjoy, are as follows, but NOT limited to:

Apples, applesauce (baby Food Formula Only), apricots, bananas, berries, bread, cantaloupe, carrots, cherries, corn, dates, dried fruit, eggs, fig, grapes, honey, honeydew, insects, lettuce (Romaine or leaf only, Head or Iceberg can cause diarrhea), meal worms, meats (low fat turkey, boiled, skinless chicken & feeder mice), melons, nuts (assorted, unsalted and raw), oranges, papaya, peaches (not the pits, they are toxic), peanut butter, pears, pineapple, plums, pure fruit juices, raisins, strawberries, sunflower seeds, sweet potatoes.

I do not suggest broccoli cauliflower, or cabbage due to the gas producing properties once ingested, no one likes to have gas, even Sugar Gliders.

One of the things that might work well for you is to have a few different containers and chop up different fruits and vegetables in each until they are full. Then all you have to do each night is to open the container(s) that you wish to feed from and pull cut a few of the pieces you wish to feed. I would like to add here that I consider it cruel not to feed some type of insect (at least) during the week. In the wild, they will eat fruits and animals and they should not be denied that while in captivity. It does not have to be done every day, but should be done often.

Sugar Gliders can gain weight more easily in captivity due to lack of movement that they would experience in the wild. Babies born to overweight parents can sometimes be born blind or with impaired vision caused by fatty deposits in their eyes. This can be corrected by a controlled diet and measuring weight with a small scale. One of the things that help cause this condition is by feeding to many nuts, which are high in protein and fat. To reduce their weight you need to reduce their fat and protein and try to increase their exercise. It may take a few weeks to bring down their weight.

Do not get frustrated when trying to feed your pet. They are peculiar with their feeding since they may willingly accept a food for a few days and then not take the same thing after a week and then eat it the following week. The bottom line is that they each have their own personality and tastes, and it will take time to find out what they like. You may find it easier to go to your local grocery store and buy a bag of frozen mixed vegetables and use these along with fresh fruit. You also need to make sure that your Sugar Glider has fresh water every day. Keep in mind that tap water may not be best since it is usually treated with chemicals to clean the water.

A couple of suggestions that I will make concerning any type of feed bowls would be that you should at least have a bowl that will not tip or spill easily. Most Sugar Gliders will tend to climb up on the bowl and set on the edge of the bowl. If the bowl is not heavy enough to support their weight, it will tip over and the food will spill either causing a mess or creating a situation where the food falls through the bottom of the age and the Sugar Glider will not be able to eat. Another suggestion that has worked well for me is to have a type of feed holder that hangs on the side of the cage. I have done this because as the Sugar Glider climbs around the cage, they will excrete and droppings fall to the bottom of the cage hitting whatever is in its way, including the food bowl. My feeders are located at the top of the cage with enough room for a Sugar Glider to sit up, on the edge, without being uncomfortable while eating. This keeps them from climbing above the food (most of the time) and lessens the chance that they will soil in their food.

A sample Glider formula that works well and is as follows:

Adult formula:

4-8 ounces Applesauce 1/2 cup Gerber dry cereal (for protein) 1/4 cup rice 1/4 cup oatmeal 1/4 cup honey 4 ounces plain non-fat yogurt 4 ounces isomil or ensure plus Apple or Orange juice to make soupy

Puree in blender until liquid form and put in ice cube trays and freeze and feed 1-2 times a week. Pull one out for an AM feeding and one for PM feedings. Discard after 5 hours. It is still a good idea to offer some type of solid foods for them too as this will help keep their teeth and gums clean and healthy.

Some people suggest feeding once a day at dusk, while others will feed twice a day. Which method you choose should be dependent upon your Sugar Gliders. Are they still hungry in the morning? Feed them a small amount in the morning or give them a little more in the evening. If I give too much food to mine, they tend to make a mess in their cage, so I do feed less at each meal, but fed twice a day. Try mixing up a few things that your Sugar Glider enjoys and are good for them and blending it together and freezing it. You can get a couple of ice cube trays fairly inexpensively and use those for freezing.


Sugar Glider Diet

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Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Camping Checklist for Forgetful Campers

!±8± Camping Checklist for Forgetful Campers

REALLY IMPORTANT STUFF!

Campground reservation info.

Directions to the actual campground.

Packing - Put food on the bottom (you'll need other items first)

Backpack, daypack, and/or fanny pack

Bags - Tent bag, grocery bags, etc.

Cardboard boxes if needed

Ice Chests

ICE!

5 gallon bucket or similar container

Large (18-30 gal) Rubbermaid(tm) container for food storage

Lighting - Check batteries!

Maglight - The larger, the better

Gas lantern (and/or electric)

BIC lighter

Matches (preferably water proof)

Spare batteries and bulbs

Spare lantern fuel and mantles

Solar Panel

Glow Sticks

Batteryless Bulbless Flashlight

Shelter/Bedding

Sleeping bag

Space Blanket

Ground Cloth - Tarp for big tents

Floor Mats (use at tent entrance)

Mattress or pad - Inflator for air mattress

Pillow

Tent

Seam Sealer

Camp axe or hammer to pound tent stakes

Shade Canopy & Rope & Stakes

Emergency blaket (found at walmart)

Tikki Torches (fill with citronella oil), also listed in medical.

Overhead rain tarps (not just shade).

Hay bale (to spread in dirt or mud areas).

10-12 inch nails from hardware store for emergency tent stakes

Tea candles to mark where tent stakes are

Sign that says No Candles in Tents!

Medical

Epipen if you have allergies

Sunscreen

Bug Repellent - Spray, Citronella Candle, etc.

Tylenol, Advil, Aspirin, Naproxin

Tums

Antibiotics creams

Tweezers for splinters & ticks

Antiseptic, bandaids and bandages

First Aid Kit (may include all the above items)

Benadryl Sinus Tablets

Allergy Eye drops

Pocket Tissues

Campho-phenique (good for minor burns, cuts, scrapes and many use it on

poison ivy)

Moist Towelettes (for cleaning wounds and early uses on poison ivy)

Extra weeks supply of any Prescriptions

Box of latex gloves (100 pack)

Cleaning & Personal Items

Bar soap

Hand Sanitizer (waterless)

Washcloth

Shampoo

Toothpaste & toothbrush

Comb/hair brush/clips/bands/hair ties

Make-up bag

Razor & shaving cream

Towel

Toilet Paper

To save space, unroll toilet paper and reroll it and put inside the tube

Whisk broom to clean table and tent site

Deodorant

Contact lens supplies

Feminine supplies

Dishwashing soap and rubber gloves

Dish rack

Laundry Detergent (biodegradeable preferred)

Miscellaneous

List of important phone numbers

Spare car/truck/boat/rv keys

Small shovel

Swiss Army knife

Compass and Map

Fishing pole and gear (+ license & bait!)

Duct tape and/or electrical tape

Safety pins

Sewing kit

Cellular phone w/extra battery and car adapter

Two way radio(s) (ham, CB, Family)

Camera w/good battery and extra film

Camcorder w/good battery and extra tapes

Radio and/or TV

Weather Radio

Crankup Radio

Books (ID books, Little House), cards, games, toys, Bible, etc.

Card table

MONEY, credit card, ID

Pocket Tool

Guitar/Harmonicas/Other musical instrument(s)

Bike/Seats/Helmets

Binoculars

Whistles

Signal Mirror

Chairs

Travel Clock

Clothesline and Clothespins

Basic tools (screwdrivers, pliers, etc.)

Copper pipe pieces for the campfire See note

Rope or String

Leather strips

Heavy rubber bands

Canoe or boat

Life jackets

Piece of carpeting (fake grass) for tent or RV entranceway

Pet Food

Eyeglass strap (to hold them on your head)

Fire starters (found in BBQ sections of stores) made from wax and sawdust

Steel Wool (can be used to start a fire by touching ends of battery to it - BE CAREFUL!)

Sand Paper

Extension cords

Pads of paper and pencils/pens

Milk crates (good for storage, step ladder and more)

Fly Swatters

Toothpicks

Dustbuster

Ear Plugs (to block out the noisy neighbors)

Clothing

Hat

Bandanna

Jacket - As weather dictates; Eskimo style, mackintosh, windbreaker, etc.

Poncho - Doubles as emergency tent/lean-to

Pants/Overalls, with belt

Underwear - 2

Shirt - 2 or 3 (one light, one flannel)

Shoes, shower shoes, HIKING BOOTS

Socks - 2 pair

Work gloves & warm mittens/gloves

Swim suit

PJ's

Sunglasses

Sulfer - keeps chiggers out of your clothes

Cooking

Stove with fuel & lighter

Newspapers for lighting a campfire

Firestarter sticks (wax/sawdust things from the grocery store)

Firewood

Charcoal or wood & Grill for BBQ

Frying Pan - Nonstick w/plastic spatula is nice

Cooking skewers (for hot dogs, s'mores, etc.)

Pot or sauce pan - Big enough to cook noodles for all; With lid

Dutch Oven

Can opener - If you have canned goods

P-38 Can Opener (military type, small, flat and fits in wallet)

Thermos

Tongs

Coffee maker & filters

Pot lifter and/or pot holders

Tablecloth

Stew Pot

Soup Ladel

Sandwich maker (type you put in fire)

Measuring cup

Cutting Board

Strainer

Veggie Peeler

Dishes

Reusable

Plate - Partition tray/plate is nice

Collapsable camping/hiking cup

Alladin travel mug

Kitchen knife - Nice to have; in general, carry a pocket knife

Small mixing bowl

Knife, Fork, Spoon, Spatula

Small flat and phillips screwdrivers

Scrub Pad

Dish Pan

Tupperware (for leftovers)

Consumables

Paper towels & napkins

Trash bags

Garbage disposal bags (stronger than regular trash bags)

Paper plates, cups, bowls, etc.

Plastic knives, forks, spoons

Ziplock Bags

Aluminum Foil

Dish soap

Water

At least 1/2 gallon per person/day -- Water filter if relying on natural water sources

Water bottle, to carry while hiking

Garden hose

Food & Drink

Pancake Mix - Krusteaze, 1/2 cup per person per day (need large skillet)

Cooking Oil - About 1 oz per person per day or Pam Spray

Syrup - About 2 oz per person per day

Butter - 1/2 stick per person per day

Malt-o-meal, or Cream of...wheat, rice, ...

Oatmeal - Instant single serving packs

Potatoes - 1-2 per person per day -- freeze dried if packing

Bacon - 2 slices per person per day

Eggs - 1-2 per person per day, fresh or powdered

Noodles - Spaghetti, Angel Hair, Ramen, or shells

Spaghetti Sauce - In jars or dehydrated

Parmesan cheese

Bouillon cubes - Chicken & Vegetable

Rice packages

Soup/Chili - mix or cans

Tuna - Don't forget Mayo, pickles, and onions

Onions, lemons, mushrooms, Tomatoes

Bread - One or two loaves per day if camping with a small group

Dry condiments - Salt, Pepper, Spices, Sugar

Catsup

Mustard

Mayo - Small jar or squeeze bottle

Cheese - Cheddar, swiss, American

Fruit - Small fruit cups or fresh fruit

Veggies - carrot/celery sticks daily

Taco Stuff - (Meat, seasoning package, olives, lettuce, tortillas, buns)

Hamburger meat (pre seasoned and ready to cook)

Frozen hashbrowns in the bag

Cocoa, Coffee, & Teas (don't forget SUGAR!)

Marshmallows, Graham Crackers & Hershey Bars (S'mores)

Peanut Butter & Jelly

Deli meat slices: Turkey, Ham, Salami

Hot dogs & buns

Milk, juice, soft drinks, Ice Tea, Lemon Ade, Kool-Aid

Vienna Sausages

Lil Smokies

Snacks

Hamburgers & Buns

Steak

Ham

Corn on Cob

Cereal

Nutri Grain Bars/Granola Bars

Fixin's for stew (some of the items are above)

Beer

Jiffy Pop or Regular popcorn

Popcorn oil

Spray oil (like Pam)

Squeeze butter or margarine

Beans

Camping with Children

Current photos of the children in case they get lost

Diapers

Swim Diapers

Wipes

Bottles/sippycups

Playyards

Jogging strollers

Backpack carriers

MANY sets of clothing

Extra pair(s) of shoes

Formula

Jar foods

Gerber toddler foods

Hats

Toys,

Favorite blanket or stuffed toy(very important!)

Powdered milk(for children that have outgrown formula)

Snacks

Storybooks

Baby Hammock

Baby Swing

kidsafe bugspray

sunblock

Portapotty with grocery bag liner (easy cleanup)


Camping Checklist for Forgetful Campers

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Sunday, November 13, 2011

How To Raise White Worms For The Aquarium

!±8± How To Raise White Worms For The Aquarium

Every successful breeder of tropical fish knows that feeding live foods to their charges is one of the best ways to maintain healthy and active fish.

Live foods are overall high in protein. They stimulate spawning, and help to intensify coloration. Live foods enhance the natural tendencies of fish to forage for their food as they would in their natural environment.

White worms (Enchytraeus albidus) are a great source of food for the aquarium. They are about 70% protein, 14.5% fats, and approximately 10% carbohydrate. The white worm in size is approximately 3/4" to 1 1/2", somewhere between Tubifex and Grindal worms. Fish love them, and they are appropriate for a large variety of carnivore fish, even the smaller cichlids.

Nick Lockhart, breeder for King Discus [http://www.kingdiscus.com] feeds white worms twice weekly to our breeding discus and juveniles. His goal is to provide a wide variety of food to keep the fish interested and feeding to stimulate breeding.

White worms are easy to raise. A plastic shoebox from the dollar store will meet the needs of most aquarists. As worms need to breathe, the container shouldn't be air tight. Cutting a small hole in the lid and placing a piece of breathable foam in the hole will suffice to allow enough oxygen to reach the worms.

Fill the container about 3/4 full with peat moss as the medium. The peat moss should be wet, but not soaked. Test by squeezing a bit of the medium in your hand. If a few drops emerge, then you have it right. If water emerges from the mass in a stream, you have it too wet.

Add your starter culture of worms. Finding a suitable starter culture can at times be difficult. A good source can be from auctions at local fish clubs, or from a fellow enthusiast. Also, looking in the classified in the back pages of magazines like Aquarium Fish Magazine or Aquarium USA can sometimes lead to a good resource.

Place a piece of wet crustless white bread on top of the medium for compost. Cover this with a sheet of plastic the size of the slice of bread. The plastic aids in keeping the bread from drying out. It is a good idea to bury the piece of bread in the medium when first starting a culture to prevent mold from occurring. Allow the worms a week to establish before feeding them. Check on them on a daily basis to insure that they are eating the bread.

White worms will need to be housed in a cool dark place, free from insects. We use an apartment sized refrigerator with a temperature control sensor that maintains the temperature at 55-65 degrees Fahrenheit.

One of the best foods for white worms is Gerber's Baby Oatmeal. Add a pinch of active dry yeast to the mixture. The trick is to feed the worms enough to insure they thrive, but not so much that it will begin to mold. A good rule of thumb is to feed only what they will consume in three days. A little trial and error work is needed here. If mold occurs, simply spoon it out of the medium, and replace the food, using less the next time.

White worm cultures will "crash" if the population becomes too large. This can be noted by the worms attempting to crawl up the sides of the container. Simply dump the medium onto a sheet of newspaper, separate the medium into two parts, and you have another culture to fall back on if the first crashes. Get another shoebox, top to 3/4 full with dampened peat moss, and you have the insurance of a supply of white worms.

To harvest white worms, simply wait until a nice clump of them are underneath the sheet of plastic, pluck them out with tweezers or your fingers, and clean appropriately before feeding to your fish. rinsing with dechlorinated water, by pouring from one container to another will do the trick, removing any soil or left over food. You can then feed the worms to your fishes.

The biggest thing to remember about growing white worms is to never let the medium dry out. It is also a good idea to have two cultures growing at the same time, in case one of the cultures "crashes." Keep an eye out for mold, feed the worms appropriately, and you will have happy, vigorous fish!


How To Raise White Worms For The Aquarium

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